2012年10月

金なんかじゃない。人と人との関わりだ。アルバニアで始まった、歓待の精神は、ギリシャやトルコにも続きます。さて、あとどのくらいたてば、実は世界はこんな風に動いてるんだ、っていうことに気づくんだろう?

これを読んでいる人の中には「なんで毎日休まず動いてんだろ?」って思ってる人もいると思うんですが、実はそれなりに理由があるんですね。まず、物理的にイランに入る直前のトルコの街、エルズルムっていう街が、標高2100メートルを超えてて、とてもじゃないが冬になったら通れない。そして、最近イスラエルとイランが緊迫してきてるじゃないですか。ひょっとすると11月6日の合衆国大統領選挙の結果次第ではイランは全く通れなくなってしまうのでは?という懸念のもと、ここからも一気にイランに進まねばって訳なんです。と、いうわけでとにかくうろうろして冬の終わりを待つわけにはいかないので、一気に進みますが、そのあとゆっくり進んでいろんなとこ訪ねてみるようにします。

コザニ、テッサロニキ

さてさてさて、9月が終わってしまいましたが当然旅は終わらないですね。むしろ始まったばっかり・・・。この一ヶ月を記念する回避不能な楽しいニュースも飛び込んできました:時差一時間(一時間損失)。まあどっちみち政治的な時差がどうとかいうよりも太陽と一緒に生活してるんであんまり関係ないんですけどね。なんにせよ東に向かっていっているんで少しずつ時間的には損していってるんですよね僕。自転車で退屈してるときとかいい頭の運動になるちょっとした算数です。

10月初日、あまりに疲れすぎてて朝起きれない。 毎日起きてからもっと早くに起きなかったことを後悔する日々・・・。そしてこれ、ホント文字通り毎日起こるんで旅の最後まで変わることないですね、きっと。

朝食の前にヘレンっていうコザニで大学通ってて、ちょうど実家に帰る直前だったカウチサーファーに誘われたので、近くのカフェで待ち合わせすることに。ま、僕当然遅れていきましたけど。いつも通り、「また戻ってくるからそのときあおう」って言って結局あんまり長居できずに再出発。

ありがたいことに、エーゲ海沿いは結構平らなんですよね。そしてちゃんとスーパーではクレジットカードが使える。めっちゃ高いけど。途中で道を尋ねるとウクライナでの経験が再び:

Sam 「すみません、英語話せますか?」
通行人 「いや、別にいいよ。ありがとう」

うむ、こちらこそありがとう。

アルバニアではイタリア語が普通に通じたものの、さすがにギリシャで最もかっこいい国がイタリアではないだろうと思うので、この作戦は却下。きっとイタリアの代わりに都合良くドイツとか・・ってことはあり得ないですね。とりあえず日本人で良かった。

ギリシャで本当に素晴らしいのはなんと言ってもインターネットがつながる点ですよね。毎回毎回超豪華偏屈ホテルに行って意味もなくセレブコーヒーとシーザーサラダを注文する必要もなく、普通にネットが使える。素晴らしいですね。それに応じてかカウチホスト見つけるのも大分楽になってきました。んで10月最初のホスト、オレステスの家に着きました。実は彼、前日泊まったトムの友達でトムが直接連絡した結果「いいよー」っつってあっさり承諾してくれた訳なんですね。ちなみに写真の真ん中のヤツです。

さて、オレステスの家につきました。次の行動は?実はオレステス、レストランでウェーターやってるんですね。彼がオーナーなのでは?っていう雰囲気だったんですが別にあえて質問もせず・・・。合計何人ウェーターがいたかよくわからんのですけどとにかく全員(三人?)が更に友達つれて集まってて、わいわいがやがやと。ひょっとすると気づいたかもしれないんですけど、僕アルバニアで完璧ドライアウトしてた上に、トムの家ではなぜか「飲もう!」って言う雰囲気にはならなかったんで、ここで一気に一瓶ビールから始まり、続いてガンガンラキやらウゾやらを立て続けに注いじゃって・・・。このあと、オレステスの家結構坂の上なんですけど、もはやチャリ転がすほどの気力とか全く残ってなくて、坂の途中で「ゴメン、もうここで寝ます」ってほとんど言いかけるぐらいまで疲労が溜まってた上に、アルコールの影響が・・・。深夜、恐らく三時前後、ふらふらになった体からエネルギーを絞り出して家に着きました。ギリシャ山多いんで僕の後に行く人気をつけてください。

本当は一晩泊まるだけの予定だったんですが、あまりに疲れていたので一日多くいさせてもらうことにしました。しかも最後に休憩らしい休憩したのってクロアチアなんですよね。むしろここまで休憩なしでやって来れたことの方が驚きだわ。

さて、ビザンツ帝国の首都、テッサロニキにようこそ。ここにはやはりローマ時代の遺物がたくさん残っています。オレステスの家にはインターネットがなかったんで、街の中心の方まで行ってルートチェック、と思って適当なところに座ったんですが、結局そこでほぼ一日終了・・・。それはいいんですけど、ギリシャってそういうときに大切になってくる結構簡単な喫茶店でコーヒー一杯に3ユーロ50セントも払ったりするんですよね。多分スイス人とギリシャ人、支出に関してはわかり合えると思います。まあ収入に関してはそうでもないようですが・・・。

地理的な問題もあり、ギリシャはやっぱり日本と同じで急な傾斜ばっかりですねえ。 もはやテッサロニキに至ってはローラースケートとスカイダイビングが同じレベルです。 しかもここの街、道の表記とかが結構適当で、コンパスとかに頼って歩くと、結構な頻度で行き止まりにぶちあたります。気をつけましょう。

3時間ほど迷い続けたあげく、なんとかオレステスの家に戻ることができました。 帰ってみると、オレステスの友人と、さらに別のカウチサーファーもきてパーティーになっていて、またしても飲み明かすことに・・・。 まあこれからイスラム圏に入ったら飲めなくなることを考えれば今のうちに飲んでおくべきか・・・。

テッサロニキ、カヴァラ、コモティニ

さてギリシャで二番目に大きい街、テッサロニキも終わり、あとはトルコに向かうのみになって参りました。 実際のところテッサロニキでは大したことできなかったんですけどね。まあイスタンブールを楽しめばいいか。 イスタンブールまでってありがたいことに山とかないんですよね。(と、思っていたら後々それは間違っていたってことに気づく訳なんですが・・・)。 ただあと260キロ以上あるんで気は引き締めていきましょう。

結局テッサロニキで一日中探した甲斐もなく、カヴァラまでの道はよくわからず・・・。 オレステスの家にはインターネットなかったんで、朝ダッシュでチェックすることもできず、コンパスで方角だけ確認していくことに。 んでまあそれって結構うまく行かないんですよね、小さい道ばっかりだと次の街までの標識とか出てないし。 さて、どうするか、って時に結局裏技を使うことに:高速道路。 このブログを最初から見ている人は知っていると思うんですが、これ別に初めてやった訳じゃないんですよね。これほどの長距離は初めてですけど。 って思っておそるおそる進んでいたんですが、実はギリシャでは高速道路自転車で走っちゃいけないって、あんまりちゃんと知られてないんですよね。どんだけ適当なんだよ。

そんなこんだでなんとかカヴァラにつくことができました。そしてまたしても自転車にあんまりフレンドリーじゃない場所に来てしまいました。 日本とかと一緒なんですけど、自転車押してもあまりに坂とかが急すぎて進めないんですよね。なんでこんなすめないような場所にギリシャ人すんでんだよ。

そして全く別問題なんですけどまたしても最初に約束してたホストに連絡がつかないとかいう問題が出てきましてね、ありがたいことにそれとは全く別にフォティスも僕のところに連絡してきてくれていたので、彼の家にいくことに。 いやぁ〜、南の国が始まってからずっとそうなんですが、ほんとに客がくるのを素直に喜んでくれてこちらも気持ちがいいですね。10分に一回ぐらい「ビール飲む?」って聞いてきてくれました。 もちろんです。

さて、この旅もだんだん長くなり、いよいよ4000キロ近くまでやってきました。そしてみなさんの推測通り、自転車にもそろそろガタがき始めた訳なんですね。 実際、旅が始まる前にどういう問題がおこるか予測するって難しいじゃないですか、でもこれはおこってほしくないと思いつつもいつか起こってしまう問題ですね:ホイールのスポークが折れている。しかも二本も。 実はこういう事故って、基本的には全くおこらないのが普通、というかおこらないように製造されてるはずなんですが、二本も折れることがあり得るのか、と思ってよくよく確認してみたら、実は僕の自転車のホイールのスポーク、結構まばらな張力になってたんですね。 マジちゃんと最初に調べてから出発すればよかった。 フォティスの友達が近くの自転車までバイクでつれてってくれたんで(バイクってすごいですね・・・。)そこでスポークだけ買いました。 ちなみにですが、普通スポークを交換するのは一度に全部やらなきゃいけないのと、左右対称にとか、全体の長さを均一に保つとかいろいろ技術が必要になってくるんで、自力で適当にやるのはやめましょう。 僕はこのときは、イスタンブールまでの応急処置として自分でやることに。 なんとかいい感じになったんで、コモティニに出発できました。 ちなみに右上の写真スポークかけてるの見えます?

実はここの部分書いてるの二週間ぐらい経ってからだったんで、コモティニまでの道がどうだったかとか実はもう全然覚えてないんですよね。 実際二週間分とか気が遠くなりそう。 でもコモティニまでの道のりがどうだったかとかどうでもいいくらい、すごいいい家族にホストしてもらえました。 写真に写ってるのはヴィッキーの家の双子です。 この双子すっごい恥ずかしがり屋で、僕に話しかけたくてしょうがないって感じだったんですが、結局ちょこちょこちょっかい出すだけで話すには至れませんでした。 まあどっちみちなんか言ってきてもギリシャ語わかんないんでどうしようもなかったんですが。 ヴィッキー自身ドイツに20年住んでたらしくて、ドイツ語も英語もぺらぺらでした。 旦那さんもいい人で街の中心まで僕のこと迎えに来てくれたんですけど、夕飯では政治トークで白熱しておりました。

コモティニ、ケサン、テキルダグ、イスタンブール

翌日、子供達と一緒に小学校に行きました(中には入ってないけど)。 僕とヴィッキーは子供達を見送った後、街の中心街の喫茶店に行ったんですけど、実は僕、そういうことが自由にできる立場ではないんですよね。 どういうことかというと、実は僕、現金全然持ち合わせてないんですよ。 この現代社会において、ATMがない国などない(イランを除く)と思って出発したわけですが、見事に実は僕のカードが外国で機能しないっていうことが発覚しまして、財布に普通に入ってた100ユーロしかないっていう状況になったんですよ。 どうしましょう。 別にどうもしないんでとりあえずトルコに向かうことにしました。笑

ギリシャって当然欧州連合に入ってるわけですよね。 そしてここまで気持ちの上ではずっと欧州にいたわけじゃないですか。 トルコがどの大陸に入るのかは結構微妙なところですが、この写真に写っている標識を越えた後の世界はぜんぜん違うもののような気がしますよね。 実際この旅が始まる前から本当の旅はトルコから始まるような気がしてました。 すっごい楽しみ。

これ読んでる人の中でギリシャとトルコの国境越えたことある人ってどのくらいいますかね。 トルコに入る前、「トルコの国境を越えるのは2時間以上かかる」ってみんなに言われてたんですけど、実際20分ですみました。 でも20分の差では済まないくらいギリシャとトルコの風景は違って、トルコに入った瞬間にものすごい量の砂が舞っていて、車とかもすごいファンキーな感じでした。 何より、ものすごい風・・・。 基本的に風って西から東に吹くもんじゃないですか? なんか逆向きだと妙に腹がたつ

ありがたいことに最初のホストのタラット(写真一番左)の家は国境からそんなに離れてなかった上に、タラットは英語の先生だったんで、スムーズに会話も進みました。 他のボーイズはなんだか音楽仲間かなんかだったらしいんですが、残念ながら英語は話せなかったんで、会話はあまり成立せず。 でも僕がついたときはやっぱり音楽やってました笑。 どうやら極東の国々とは違って、トルコ人は今でもご当地の伝統的な音楽が好きなようです。 なんだか変わったギターも見せてくれたんですけど、弾いてもらったらまさにアラジンの音がでてくるんですよね。 トルコ行ったら聴いてみてください。

ってな感じでトルコの1日目はあっさり終わっちゃいました。 でも一つだけ、トルコにはイスラム教の教えに従ってアルコールは一切口にしないっていう人がたくさんいるそうです。 タラットとかはぱっと見ヨーロッパ系の顔に見えるんですが、それでもイスラム教徒であることには変わりないですからね。 でも実際アルコールとかいいことあんまりないんで僕の方が色々勉強になりそうです。 多分効果ないけど笑

あとトルコ人って査証の関係でそう簡単にはヨーロッパには行けないんですよね。 特にシェンゲン協定とか、一国に入ったらどこの国にでも回れるとかいうちょっと便利になった感を出してるシステムが最近できたんですけど、逆に一国目に入るのは結構難しくなったようです。 特にどこにでも大使館なり領事館なりがあるわけでもないので、トルコ人はイスタンブールとかアンカラとかに行かなければならないそうです。 僕はこれまでにそういう問題にぶち当たったことはないんですが、トルコ人の中にはまだヨーロッパがどういう場所か見たことがないっていう人が結構いるみたいで驚きました。 まあ日本にもヨーロッパがどういう場所か見たことない人結構いると思いますが・・・。

タラットの家を去る前にソニーのティポ?とかいう携帯を買っておきました。 後から聞いたんですが、この携帯は初めて携帯を持つ人のために作られたそうです(どういう意味だろう)。 実際そんな人がいるのか不思議だし、僕自身最初の携帯をもらってからすでに15年ほど経ってるので別にそんな携帯である必要はなかったんですが、この携帯一つで基本的になんでもできるし、常にインターネットにつながっていられるんですごく便利になりました。 いっつもすごい不思議なんですが、僕が携帯ショップに行くと、別に日本人ですとか言ってないのに(てか僕的にはなんでもいいのに)必ずソニーを勧められるんですよね。 いったいどうなってるんでしょうか。

さて、トルコの地理に詳しい人(そんな人が日本にいるのでしょうか)はわかると思うんですが、イスタンブールっていうのはヨーロッパとアジアを結ぶ海峡沿いにあるんですね。 というわけでケサンからイスタンブールまでの道は海沿いを走っていけばいい。 ってなわけで結構陽気に走ってたんですけど、これがすっごい高低差が激しいんですよ。 しかもやたらと逆風ばっかり吹くわけじゃないですか。 なんだよトルコ

今日の目的地、テキルダグについたとき、なんとカウチホストの家がテキルダグではなかったとかいうとんでもない事実が発覚。 本当はコルルっていう街だったらしんですけど、これが30キロぐらい離れてたんですね。 不思議なことにコルルとテキルダグは行政的には同じ街として扱われているそうです。 そしてさらに問題なのが、テキルダグにも、コルルのホストが住んでいるのと同じ名前の通りがあるんですね。 しかもテキルダグに着いたのが午後8時。 今日が沈むのが大体午後7時なんで、結構暗い。

街のど真ん中。 ホストとの電話の後、途方に暮れておりました。 と、思ったらなんだかトルコ的な結末がちゃんと待っていてくれました。 トルコ人のおじいさんが突然声かけてくれたんですね。 向こうは当然英語とか話せないわけじゃないですか。 コミュニケーションとか全然取れなかったんですけど、どうやら手助けしたい的なことはわかったんですよ。 ついて行ってみたらレストランに連れて行ってもらえてたらふく食べさせてもらえました。 そしてご飯食べてる間に本来のホストがテキルダグに住んでいるといういとこに連絡を取っててくれててなんといとこのところに泊めてもらうことまで決まりました。 まるでわずか一時間前まで途方に暮れていたのが嘘のようです。 さすがトルコですね。

というわけで本来のホストのいとこ、ゴクハンさんのところに泊めてもらったんですが、さすがトルコ。 ゴージャスです。 まるでシンデレラの世界に飛び込んだかのようです。 意地悪なママはどこでしょう。

この日は偶然日曜日だったんで、朝食もゴージャスに用意してくれました。 さらに昼食までもたせてくれて、さすがトルコ、言葉にできないぐらい感激です。 トルコで客になるっていうのはすごいことですね。

トルコっていうのは人口7700万人のそれほど大きくない国なんですが、ヨーロッパ最大のメトロポリタン都市、イスタンブールを抱えているんですね。 イスタンブールはちなみに歴史的にも非常に重要な都市で、これまで支配者が誰だったかによって、ビザンチンと呼ばれたり、コンスタンチノープルと呼ばれたりしています。 オットーマン帝国の頃は帝国の中心にあったイスタンブールですが、現在はトルコの端にあり、ヨーロッパの側からすると、ある意味アジアへの入口となっています。 これが今日の行き先で、はっきり言ってテキルダグからイスタンブールまで人がいないってことがないぐらい混雑してました。

午後5時、イスタンブール入口の標識が現れました。 道路が無限に三次元に入り組んでいます。 そのくせ高速道路じゃないんですよね。 ドイツですら考えられないですね。 途中の道で車と2回接触しました。 特に何事もなかったんでよかったんですけど。

Late in the evening, finally I could find the district where my host, Özkal, lived. To be honest, I thought I could never arrive at his place after straying in every small street, losing probably more than hours. I don't know if ever other people would do the same trip as mine but it's highly recommended to not cycle through Istanbul. You will die, for sure.

On the way to Özkal's place, I asked a guy in the street, Ali, who helped me to find the district and then the apartment of Özkal. He happened to be very interested in Asian cultures, especially that of China. I spent then a lot of time in Istanbul with Ali.

Istanbul

So, welcome to Istanbul. I was really glad to be able to repair my bicycle first. Özkal showed me around the neighborhood first. The sea side of Istanbul is pretty well constructed and only by following alongside the sea, you can go to the port of Istanbul, which connects the European side to the Asian side. It's probably also very important to note that there are the European and the Asian side in Istanbul. There are high ways if you are crossing the sea by car but otherwise you are obliged to use a ferry going from one side to the other.

Unfortunately, I did not take so many photos in Istanbul. The problem is that whenever I have a really good time, I don't think of taking photos and afterwards I notice that there were a lot of things to tell but with very little number of photos... Next time I will try to think of that :)

On the way, I met a French guy, Joe (?), and a French girl, Claire. We spent the first day together since Özkal had to work the whole day, but still it was very nice that he took his bicycle and showed me a little around.

Interestingly, Joe came from Germany by bicycle. He started his trip in April and took the way through Austria etc. to Bulgaria and then Turkey. I know that this way is not bad either and I'm also very interested what it is like. If there's a "next time" I may try this route as well.

We spent the whole day by visiting bicycle shops together. They were all concentrated near the port and of course the streets in this districts are so narrow that a Soviet tank would destroy houses of the both sides at the same time. In these small streets you can see at least thousands of people with one Japanese and two French. What I wanted to say is that, it's just crazy that everything is mixed together in such an extent. And in Istanbul, there's no reasonable subway so, everyone moves around by their own means. You can play real final fantasy by yourself. Don't be too afraid of a game over, otherwise you cannot move a step further.

In the rest of the day, we went to the hostel they were staying in and there we met a lot of people and in the end, I didn't visit Istanbul at all but it was still quite interesting since there are tons of young people from different countries in hostels and they often offer a place to chat. It's a kind of thing I can not get away from in recent years...

And as always, I could be a very exemplary couch surfer, promising Özkal to cook in the evening and coming back too late just to find out he had already cooked. If ever Istanbul had a reasonble subway network, it wouldn't have happened.

And again, I forgot to take a photo with him.

By the way, or actually it's not really by the way, but the real reason I visited Istanbul was to get the visa for Iran. Since I didn't know how it was to work, I went to the Iranian embassy in Istanbul, where they told me that I need a reference number of a tourist agency... Of course I don't have anything like that, since I'm not planning to visit Iran in a tour. So I decided to contact iranianvisa.com to get a reference number. It would cost something around 30 € (?) but well, a visa is more important than the cost. After submitting the application I heard from my fellow bikers, Oliver and Sonja, that in Trabzon there wouldn't be any problem. Hence I ignored iranian.com after that. To end this story, please look at the vivid message they gave to me six days later:

Hi, As we have not received any news from you yet ,we need to report your cases now although We have done our service .
The applications are registered automatically upon receipt of the applications on our system and this has been costly and timely for us. According to our website’s terms of service which you have accepted by submitting your application on our website, you need to pay the service fee for the application you submitted.
Your applications has been processed at once you have sent it and for your information we have to submit any applications as soon as we receive and this is one of the visa regulations .
When somebody send a request for visa ,we have to send the details to the MFA and we can not keep any applications ,so any details need to be available at the MFA’s system . Your application request has been done and it has been costly and timely for us.We can not cancel any applications at all as the whole process is systematic and this is not under our control.
So if you really want to ignore our costs with your mistake or any other reason and do not want to paying the money you owe to us and we paid for you ,we have no other choice than we do the case ref : 0000430210.We never had this problems with any other of our clients.We hope you understand why we have sent you this message ,because this very strange you want to ignore the money you made for us by sending your application and we can not keep your application after the application is submitted ,so please understand why we have to report this immediately !
We hope you will be more serious and make the payment asap and inform us and also you can ask somebody else to pay on behalf of you.We really do not have any time!
We are very disappointed you have had this behavior and do not want to pay the money you owe us!
You are responsible for all of the consequences for your consular file from now as we are reporting to them!

Whaaaaaaat!?!? They have never had this problem with any other client!? What a shame on me... But what's MFA? Google google... Ah!! Museum of fine arts (according to wikipedia)! I don't see any relation in this affair but that sounds serious. And yes, it's very strange that I want to ignore the money I made for them. Well, actually I'm pretty much interested in it, especially in keeping it.

So the next day, Özkal had to go away so I went to Ali's place, who is by the way the second from left. The second from right is by the way Joe from France. He (or rather his mother) prepared a nice Turkish dinner. So there's a soup, with yoghurt, and the meaty main dish, with yoghurt and rice, with yoghurt, in case of Ali. I mean, the yoghurt is just there so you are not obliged to take it but apparently they always put some yoghurt in every dish. I told Ali that we eat yoghurt with something sweet, like sugar or jam in Europe. He seemed to be very surprised. What a huge difference...

I really cannot remember anymore what I was doing the next day. The only thing I still know is that I had to buy stuff for winter as it's getting colder and colder now. I bought a sleeping pad first of all. It's a kind of wonder that I didn't have a sleeping pad at all. Hopefully it'll be easier to sleep on asphalt.

If you have visited Tokyo or Paris, you've certainly noticed that the culture of the nation there has already pretty much died out. In case of Istanbul, however, you can still see a lot of Turkish stuff. Looking at this guy carrying a bunch of sandwiches on his head, I hoped that it would remain forever in this city...

And so for the last day in Istanbul I stayed at Umut's place. And for the first time in Turkey, I could drink beer... finally... We played cards that I had brought from Germany, 6 nimmt, if you've heard of that. It was a shared flat of 4 guys. I really liked it as the others were also very easy going.

So were my three or four days I don't know anymore in Istanbul. It's by far the largest city in Europe and even more tremendously chaotic. Apparently it's on the way of development and the subway network etc. will certainly be done in several years. I have to say, I'm quite looking forward to the future of Istanbul with the probable mixture of tradition and innovation. This will make this city probably pretty unique and of course even more attractive than before.

Istanbul-Izmit

Finally, Istanbul was over, as you might be thinking as well, and of course not really. Firstly, you must get to the other side of Istanbul, which is not so easy, but pretty amazing. Also it was the first time in my memory, apart from a trip to Hokkaido hundreds of years ago. Now I'm a bit wondering if it was a kind of cheating since I promised I would go back to Japan by bicycle but evidently I'm using a different transportation means...

The destination of the day was the end of the sea of Marmara, Izmit, which is also called Kocaeli, which caused a lot of problems with other couch surfers since I didn't know this simple fact and I had to turn down a lot of invitations thinking they are living somewhere else.

And this is my nice blond (?) host of the day Cetin, or rather his bird. He or she apparently liked so much the tab key that he or she, let's say he to avoid further incovenience, tried to detach it from my computer. My computer is so dirty...

Cetin is a primary or secondary school teacher in English and giving also private lessons (is it allowed in Turkey?) so there was no problem in communication. And moreover, he went to Georgia from Izmit by bicycle this summer. He told me he was kind of tired of whatever was going on in his environment and he took his bicycle to go away. I don't know whether he was heading for Georgia from the start, but it was very interesting to know what he did since I'm planning to do the same job except that I'm probably going to Ankara first and he stayed at the black sea all the time. You can also read his blog.

One nice strategy he took while on the way was to ask at gas stations whether he could put his tent there or not. Gas stations are always open in Turkey so there's a bit of security there. And there are toilets and everything needed to survive. And of course it's very easy to find a gas station.

Just after my arrival in Izmit, Cetin came to the city center by car. He was following my position on my website. We went to a typical kebap restaurant and then to a special café in Izmit, the speaking café. This is a place founded by a friend of Cetin where no Turkish is allowed so usually people speak English but in some cases they speak French or German or whatever. I found the idea nice even though it would not work in every country. I hope you know which country I mean by this... Anyway, when I arrived there there were 2, 3 guys talking in English, though they were all Turkish. After some time past, there were around 10 people at our table and we all talked together. This was probably the moment in Turkey where I could talk with so many people at the same time :) I wish there would be everywhere such a place in the world.

Following day, we went to the speaking café again to have a breakfast. It seems to be a colony of Cetin and his friends. By the way, the guy on the left side, Arif, spoke very nice English and besides he offered me 12 TL for my cellphone. It was a very nice support since it's very expensive in Turkey.

While being in Turkey, you should not put your vehicle everywhere. I learned it in the moment where in front of my eyes one car was transferred. The whole process took maybe 5 minutes and then the car was away. The Turks park really anywhere and anytime, but the counter attack comes pretty quickly. I'm so happy that I'm not in Turkey by car... though, it costs only 30 TL, which is about 13 €... Does it have a great effect first of all?

After taking farewell to Cetin, I headed further for the east, as it should be during my whole trip. This part of Turkey is still pretty European and most of the people I met so far had told me that I will see a completely different country after Ankara so I was pretty relaxed at the moment.

Izmit-Düzce-Yanicaga

In the middle of October in Turkey, it's getting slightly colder but the weather is perfect. I have to say everything is going perfectly at the moment. October is probably the month where you can really enjoy cycling.

Since some time, couch surfing has the invitation function, which means if the host wants to invite somebody looking for a couch, he or she can invite the couch surfer. And since the beginning of Turkey I was pretty much travelling only using this function. And this way, my host of the day, Ismail contacted me.

Ismail was also a teacher in English so, I didn't have any problem in communication with him, though the others unfortunately did not speak English at all. But the excitement came in the evening, when the soccer game between Turkey and Romania (?) started. The people here in Turkey are obsessed with soccer, although the Turkish national team is not especially successful. I don't know how proud they are of their own national team...

I don't know whether I should give the last jab but Turkey lost for 0-1, even though it was in Istanbul...

And lastly here's the photo of all of us together, in front of the 3D television. I don't know how you feel but it's so extremely uncool when I think that we are carrying 3D television glasses...

Somewhat I had forgotten about the fact, that Turkey is not less mountaneous than any other country in the world. At the point where I was more than 200 km away from the next destination, Ankara, that I wanted to arrive in in two days, it turns out that it's located in the middle of mountains with its altitude of around 1000 m above the sea level... And what's more, the mountains before Ankara are of course much higher since cities are mostly created in a valley. So, I was destined to overcome mountains with 1300 m or whatever...

With a little bit of hope that some kind of miracle would happen I started the day and of course, such a thing does not happen.

During hours, I cycled slopes of more than 10 degrees. After having cycled only 70 km, I arrived in the city of Yanicaga. I tried out the strategy of asking aorund at petrol stations, only to see that it does not work. Later I noticed that this method hardly works in Turkey, even though I just want to put my tent and nothing else...

It was in this moment that one car stopped to wait for me. I didn't know why it stopped first but as the driver came out, I realized that he wanted to help me. His name was Adnan, living in this village. He invited me to his place for dinner, and he showed me also a place to put my tent, although he scarcely spoke English (we used google translation to communicate. It does not work so well for Turkish-English but is better than nothing :) In the end, there was nothing to worry about. I could put my tent at the lake and the day was over.

Yanicaga-Ankara

Next day, though I was to leave the city early in the morning, at 6 am, he invited me to his place to have a breakfast. He must have waken up unusually early for me. With my newly bought sleeping pad I could sleep pretty well. Actually, it's very important to have a thing like this, I think :)

It must be something crazy, but the climate of central Turkey is completely different than that of the coastal region. Suddenly there was not only no ocean, but also no forests. I could only see brown fields with few trees.

Probably the culture is also completely different in this region. Or is there any culture at all? Anyway it's wonderful to see a ferris wheel with exactly ONE wagon.

Again, late in the evening, I arrived somewhere near Ankara. I was so exhausted at the moment because of the never ending mountains. At the end, I called my host of the day, Arda. Looking at the position given by the GPS, he told me the way to his apartment and finally, completely dark outside, I could arrive at his place.

Arda was an engineer at the same age as me. Why are all the people working at my age? He spoke by the way amazing English.

If I compare Ankara with Istanbul, it's much more like Tokyo with a good organization and new buildings. For bicycles anyway, Ankara is much better. At first, I was planning to get the Pakistani visa but since it seemed to be quite difficult without LOI (letter of invitation) so, I decided to buy some small things I would need for winter.

Next day, out of exhaustion of the previous day or I don't know why, I ate too much in the morning and I could not move anymore during the whole day. This is probably one of the most stupid things you can do in a trip and this was not the first time as for me...

In the evening, though I forgot to take photos, I set up a mini couch surfer meeting in the middle of the city. Of course with a little bit of delay I arrived at Kizilay, which looks like miniture Tokyo. Following the recommendation of others we went to a gay bar.

It's very nice to know more or less locals who speak English as well. Until midnight we talked and drank. Isn't it forbidden to drink in Islam?

By the way, you can hear the Elsan (I don't know how it's written...) which occurs five times a day. I have really the feeling that actually no one is interested in it. For those who have never experienced it: muslims are supposed to pray five times a day and here in Turkey you can hear a kind of singing/crying via speakers around the city. I think we can replace it by Mariah Carey and no one would notice it.

I was not planning to stay one more day, but since Ayse from the same city invited me to her place, I decided to stay there. After putting my stuff at her place, as she was expecting other guests who spoke only Turkish and therefore I stayed away from her apartment for the day, I went to Decathlon to buy some stuff and then I went to Kizilay once again since one of the couch surfers of the previous day, Dilara offered me a guide through the old town.

Ankara used to be a small city before the revolution, though most of them say even a village. So the old part of it was pretty small but it was very traditional, as far as I know. Well, actually I don't know anyway Dilara told it to me so I believe her :) I'm sorry that I don't have a photo for the traditional Turkish tableware on the photo, but the guys here are making it here. On the edge of the photo you can see some examples.

I'm not a racist but being Japanese is one of the most exciting things in the world. At least, Dilara was pretty intersted in Japanese culture like anime (which I'm not so much proud of lol) and the guy in the cafe offered us a traditional Turkish coffee for free. Anyway, Turks are nice.

By the way, or actually it was much more important than anything else at that moment, I called the service center of my bank, Sparkasse, to ask what was going on with my card, since I could not take money from ATM at all. The problem was, they said everything is alright. Well you know, everything doesn't seem to be alright? A bit depressed, I went to Bauhaus (you've heard of it if you have been in Germany. It's anyway a big store for raw materials) and I tried to take money. It worked. Why? I don't know but thinking that it would anyway not work I chose 1000 TL which is equivalent to around 440 €. So, finally I could obtain money! (even though it was MY money anyway) You cannot know how high I was at that moment. Roaming in Bauhaus, I think a lot of people who saw me thought Far-east-Asians are people smiling all the time. Actually pretty much never, in Tokyo especially. Doesn't matter. I was happy anyway.

Ankara-Kirikkale-Corum

Early in the morning next day I restarted my trip. I stayed in Ankara three days. Bad conscience :(

The region around Ankara is amazing. There's heavenly nothing. Just a main road and no tree, no building. I don't understand how the mountains are still existing there. This might have been the first time in my life to see a land horizon so clearly. Of course it's pretty hard to find a place to sleep. At the end of the day, I could find only one gas station and of course they said it's okay to put my tent there, since the land is infinitely there. Nice that it's not Tokyo :)

Next day, the same landscape, endlessly. Just going up and down. Since nobody spoke English, I didn't have a lot of contact with other people. I was just cycling.

So I was pretty happy when I arrived at Hakan's place in Corum. When I arrived there, he was still working in the factory. I don't know anymore what kind of factory it was but anyway we went to the canteene since I was a bit hungry. It's very important to know guys, how much a biker can eat. The problem is rather the time. As you might know a human being has a limited chewing ability. So whenever I can have a huge meal I eat around one hour and then I sleep like a log. Probably I can appear on the first page of "the little prince"

Later on the day, we organized a small couch surfer meeting with Zeynep to eat some Turkish traditional food. And of course I don't know anymore what I ordered since it's been almost 2 weeks but anyway Hakan and I had 2 portions of something plus one hamburger. You're also an expert, not bad my dear.

And the day cannot end without having a glass of beer. At that moment, I was too tired to think logically but we had anyway a nice time. Thanks Hakan.

Corum-Samsun-Giresun

Again, the same landscape after Corum. At least I was heading for the black sea. I really hoped that the way would go slowly down towards the sea. Hehe, the life is of course not so easy. I think when I come back to Japan I can straight go to Tokyo, even if it's going over Fuji. It was probably only the last 40 km or so which was nicely going down. Well, actually no so nicely, rather abruptly. You can probably have a free fall into the black sea.

Anyway I was hosted by Yalcin, who was going to Japan on the next day. It was actually the reason why I tried to do 160 km on this day. And what's more, he went there with his bicycle. Besides, he was not prepared when I arrived there. I saw a good soul mate here.

Coincidentally there was a concert of traditional Turkish music in the evening there. We went there together with some other friends of him. Turkey is a kind of country which has developed so much but hasn't lost its own culture. I find the music really nice, even though I slept in after 5 minutes. It's another way of enjoying music you know?

Yalcin told me he gets something like 300 € tickets from his company for food. So we decided, appropriately enough, to go to a Kebap restaurant. We ordered an ordinary wrapped Kebap first, then almost the same one for me. Since I still had some space in my stomach, I ordered another Kebap according to his recommendation. It turned out to be a full dish with meat, vegetables and bread on one dish. Apparently, no one was expecting me to finish it, including Yalcin himself, though I did. I don't know why he recommended it to me then.

Following day, Yalcin invited me to his cousin's place since it was a Sunday. With the same hospitality as everywhere in Turkey, I was filled up with tons of Pide which pretty much only produces energy.

And it turns out that Giresun, the city I was heading for was around 200 km away from Samsun, so I decided to take two days. On the way, there were at once a lot of Turks surrounding me. Danger!? They wanted to offer me a cup of tea and a sandwich. Thanks.

One of them spoke more or less English so he translated everything for me. Well, sometimes a conversation with a person from a completely different culture is pretty interesting:

Guy: "When is your birthday?"
Sam: "April 8th"
Guy: "Ah, like a lot of people in the world"

Yes, certainly...

This kind of interruption occurs quite often in Turkey. And every time they offer me a cup of tea. I don't know what is your impression on Turkey but if you happen to consider to have holidays there, I strongly recommend to talk to local people as well. They are often so nice to tourists.

They say it's just only raining all the time in the black sea region. But I never experienced rain fortunately. It was very windy but I have to say, it's one of the most beautiful places in the world. The photo you can see here is the one I made at the sun rise on the second day of 200 km journey. It's a wonderful feeling to get up in the morning twilight like this. And I'm also grateful for the infrastructure of Turkey. It's not a place to swim, but it has its own beauty, you've got to know my dear :)

Later on the same day, I arrived in Giresun. Apparently this region used to be more Greek than Turkish and there was some historical stuff lying everywhere in the city. My host, Murat, who is by the way the guy on the right on the photo, showed me the castle on the top of the hill. He's the captain of a patrol boat in the black sea. The other guy, Mohammed, is by the way the vize captain.

It's very important to have a huge ceremony to everything. With this in mind, you have to know that the number plate of a car does not have any importance anymore. Love goes over traffic rules. Something Germans would never understand.

In the evening, we went to a Turkish restaurant to try some Kebap, appropriately enough. Well, I don't complain anyway as I like it. Then to an open cafe where everyone was simply playing cards or Romeo (is it called so?). It's apparently the way Turks see each other and spend time together. Most of them are obviously students. The fact that students have the most time seems to be something quite international. Then back home, we drank a bottle of Raki (I don't know how to write the "i" without the dot on top, though I haven't really cared about the Turkish special characters until here generally :). Greeks said it's a Greek beverage but according to my beloved wikipedia it's a Turkish one. Out of tiredness, I cannot really remember what happened then but I think I didn't drink so much. It's a great drink I'm so glad Turks invented it :)

Giresun-Trabzon

Does anyone out there know the real reason that I eventually took the way at the black sea? It's because there's Trabzon there. This is known as a city where you can get an Iranian visa pretty much without much effort. I mean, of course it has its own history and as I see there's a never ending wikipedia article about it it's an interesting city as it is, but it's not that important. First thing first. Visa!

The host who contacted me disappeared in the last moment so I took the cheapest hotel in the city. I paid something like 15 liras a day, which is equivalent to about 6 €. I think I could really freak out for the price if it were in Tokyo.

And of course in the morning following day I first went to the Iranian embassy. As my request was cold-bloodedly refused in Istanbul, I was really stressed on this issue but it turned out to be really easy. So, you guys, if you happen to want to go to Iran, go to Trabzon first. You don't need a reference number apparently. However, I heard later that it pretty much depends on the nationality. So if you are Italian but not funny, or German but not diligent, or Russian but not drunk, you'll probably need a reference number. I think Russians don't need a visa anyway.

One the way to the bank where I paid 60 €, I went to the main street of Trabzon. I'm happy to have been able to take a photo of conventional landscape with McDonalds, Burgerking, Vodafone, Levi's etc.

Before going back to the Iranian embassy, I looked around the city. The weather was not so nice but the infrastructure is impressive in this region. This is probably something nobody really knows in the rest of the world, me neither actually before.

One brilliant thing Turks invented: look at the photo of the department store with pretty much only fashion boutiques. I think so far it looks like an ordinary department store of this kind, BUT, it has a spiral corridor so, every floor is one-dimensionally connected, which means, if you go there with your girl friend, you know that you are destined to spend time in ALL the boutiques existing. What a formidable structure...

Following day, I decided to visit the famous Sümela monestary, which is located at around 1000m above sea level. So, here's one thing you should know: it's of course not directly in Trabzon and the distance to it is I think something like 60 km. So it's quite impossible to go there on foot. There's actually a tour which starts every morning at 10 am for 20 TL. Well, it's just a "tour" which brings you to the place and at 2 pm or so the bus will come to the place again and you'll come back to Trabzon. As the monestary is not a site where you can stay more than 30 minutes without seeing the same thing twice, you are kind of obliged to go to the souvenir shop and the restaurant at the site. There's otherwise nothing to see/buy/do. So, this tour was out of question in my case. Hence, I decided to go to the city of Macka, which is located around 16 km away from the Sümela monestary, and to hitch hike to the monestary, which eventually worked pretty well and cost 5 TL altogether.

And I have to say, it's a must-see place if you are in Trabzon. The location is simply impressive. It's very hard to take a photo of the extraordinariness but maybe you can recognize it a bit on the photo.

It's still a wonder that there were people who created this site.

As I wrote, I could not stay at a couch surfer's place in Trabzon but in the hotel, I became friends with Luca from I don't know which city but somewhere in Turkey. He was waiting for his visa for Romania and visiting Trabzon in the mean time. He showed me the city and the best places to eat Kebap. On the last day of my stay, we went to a Turkish bath together. In contrast to Japanese On-sen, there is actually no bath inside, but a huge flat hot stone on which you can lie down and philosophize or whatever. I found it a bit too expensive but if you want to try a real Turkish life, maybe it's something interesting though :)

Trabzon-Batumi

Have you ever heard of Kurban Bayram? This is a Turkish festival which was celebrated on the day I went away from Trabzon. I don't really remember what was exactly the reason but anyway you can see many carcasses of cows or sheep etc. directly slaughtered on the street. I had heard of this festival but I couldn't recognize first the bodies of cows. I just thought something reddish was on the street.

On the way, I was stopped by the police. This was the first contact with the police in Turkey and simultaneously the last one. Well, why did they stop me? It's because Bayram. Apparently they are stopping cars randomly to offer chocolate and to take a photo together with them. I think the Turkish police are quite different than whatever I have ever seen until now :) It's anyway nice to have such an experience at the end of Turkey.

Well, I think I haven't mentioned until here, but I decided to go to Georgia and Azerbaijan before going to Iran, as the mountains between Turkey and Iran are very high and it's not so good for my bicycle neither to do such a hard trip, though it would have been pretty interesting as well.

And so, my days in Turkey were over. I was there only about 3 weeks, but I could experience a culture I had never seen before, different than that of Europe and of course different than the Japanese one. It was also very interesting to see the modern society together with the mentality which exists for centuries, as something like this does not really exist anymore in many developed countries. Speaking of modern society, I was surprised by the level of development of Turkey as well. Especially the infrastructure in the black sea region was simply amazing. Hopefully I can see the other side of Turkey next time when I come back here again since everyone told me that it's a completely different country there. Well, I'm looking forward to it :)

And welcome to Georgia, a country which nobody knows whether it's European or Asian.

The first city was Batumi. Still there are a lot of dogs but I could also see pigs everywhere, in the middle of the main road for example... I'm wondering what happens when they accidentally cross the border or so. Illegal immigrants?

Just after arriving in Batumi, I looked for a restaurant to use the internet. It's got a little bit hard to find a place for the internet but there was one in the city center. Well, I was wondering where to stay since I couldn't find a couch surfer until Gori. I was planning to take a hotel somewhere when two guys came into restaurant and asked me if the bicycle outside was mine. That was Luis from Peru and Natalia from Poland. After talking around half an hour, Natalia invited me to her place, to the floor :) I was more than happy though.

Luis is also a cyclist and he started in Peru some years ago, staying somewhere in winter and after that he restarts his trip. This time he started in Istanbul and he traveled all around Turkey. What a nice guy. Natalia was an exchange student in Tourism with Erasmus, so she had plenty of time. So we roamed over Batumi the whole day, starting from the Soviet block. As you can see on the photo, there's something you cannot really see in Europe or Japan, but I found it pretty pragmatic. Nice.

One thing all the other nations in the world have to learn: there is a chacha fountain in Batumi, which is by the way a kind of wodka. This happens allegedly twice a week at 7 pm. With much expectation we all went there with two other couch surfers from Poland... though it turned out to be a false day. You can imagine how disappointed the Poles were. Their blood is consisting of Wodka (I know that, boys, since I was in Poland as a teacher and my students showed me that hehe) so I was very sorry for that :( According to what I see on the photo, Luis was very disappointed.

I was planning to go away on the following day but after spending an evening with my two hosts and Luis, I eventually decided to stay one more day in Batumi. By marshrutka, which became totally familiar to me after the stay in the Ukraine, we went to the botanical garden with two Georgian guys as guides. The marshrutkas here by the way are still crazy but not that crazy as in Ukraine. Someday I will create a craziness scaling, though I'm sure Ukraine will be the king anyway.

So the entry fee:
Georgians: 3 lari
Foreigners: 6 lari
Students: 1 lari
We went in as students after all but what a friendliness towards foreigners...

The very first thing we saw: bamboo. Nice! Pretty Japanese!! then? some Japanese trees. Ah ok it starts with a Japanese zone. We went on and went on... 10 minutes later: Japanese trees. Ok, The Japanese zone seems to be pretty large. 30 minutes later: Mexican zone! ok ok nice, let me see: Japanese garden.

Please, believe me, dear staff of the botanical garden, you will NOT find a Japanese garden in Mexico. Anyway not in normal circumstances.

Later in the evening, I went to a cafe with Marzena, another host living together with Natalia, and Luis since we bumped into an American guy in a cafe (well, we went to a cafe the previous day as the Poles were too much disappointed.)

Since Luis and I were heading for the same direction we decided to cycle together for a while. Though we wanted to leave early in the morning the following day, we stayed there until midnight.

Batumi-Kutaisi-Gori

Following day, we were planning to go away at 8 am and we ended up staying until 11 am... The problem was also we wanted to do 140 km and Luis did not have a lamp on his bicycle, which means we cannot cycle after the sunset. We cycled pretty fast but on the way, of course, there are a lot of things going on, not only lunch, but also for examle at one point there was an old grandma who wanted to offer us kaki, Japanese persimmon. Here in Georgia, surprisingly, you can see them everywhere. The thing is also they all know that kaki comes from Japan so whenever I say I'm from Japan, they want to offer me kaki.

After probably 100 km, the sunset was nearing. We were heading for a city where a couch surfer rented us a whole house, though he himself was not there. It sounds weird in the western standard but this kind of things sometimes happens in this part of the world. Anyway, we knew at this point it's impossible to reach the place so we decided to put our tents. It's so much better to camp with someone else than all alone. We ate then watched a movie, though the movie was horribly bad and we were too tired to watch it to the end.

I did not really want to do only 40km the following day, but the host of the day told us there would be a welcome party in his city, Abasha, organized by the local government. Since I was quite interested in this story, I intended to stay there one day with Luis. So, we arrived in the city early in the morning. And there were some people coming from the city hall. Cool! It turned out that they thought we were just passing by and wanted to take a picture with us... One of them showed us the way to the house of the couch surfer. In this moment, I did not think of staying there on this day. Just 40km is not enough. Anyway, another big city, Kutaisi, was just 40km away from Abasha, I decided to stay there until lunch.

First we went to the house offered by the host. In fact, it was in a very small village located at 10km away from Abasha. And the house was probably built before the Soviet era. It might be more than 100 years old, as there was not water, no electricity. Just a well in the garden. I don't know how it happened but obviously no one was living in the house. There was one tree of kaki in the garden and a very long branch lying around. So we smashed onto the kaki. Very nice. There was also one pig profitting from this action :)

Actually there are a lot of guys from English spoken countries in Georgia. We met two American guys and one Canadian in Abasha. They are teaching English throughout Georgia. They don't earn so much money but it's still a nice job. If they get a place for a Japanese speaker or a German, maybe I'll come back here again next year to work as a language teacher and maybe at the same time as a physicist...

After the lunch, I restarted the trip to the east, without Luis this time though. I have to say, it's much better to travel with someone else, as I felt so lonely this time. As if they would like to intrude on my way the cows were passing the street. This kind of thing happens at least ten times a day if you are cycling. Of course they don't care about the traffic.

I really didn't want to put a tent after having done it with Luis. Being alone is a bit tricky sometimes. Then I looked for a hostel in Kutaisi.

And sometimes weird things happen. I know that there are a lot of people around the world, and you are mostly not the only one doing whatever you are doing/planning to do. However, it can also be a huge surprise to know that there ARE people in reality that are doing it. And here you are: I bumped into a Japanese guy, 24 years old, going back to Japan by bicycle, starting from France.

He is Shusaku from Kyoto. He went to France by working holiday and stayed in Mulhouse for 8 months, woriking as a cook at the same time. After his stay there, which was 5 months ago by the way, he started his trip back to Japan, though in his case it's not always going to the east all the time. He was also heading for Tbilisi at that time but he wanted to stay in Kutaisi one more day. So unfortunately I had to leave the city without him. It would have been fun though to travel with him I imagine... But anyway we'd see each other in Tbilisi so, it's not the final farewell :)

Then I learned something horrible: There is again a mountain just after Kutaisi, with the height of more than 1000m.... I think this was the forth time in the whole trip. Who created such a terrible world? And at the same time, I found out that the distance to Gori was more than 150km. I think something in my caculation was terribly wrong.

Starting in the early morning, of course the first problem occurs, which is always the same: the wind. I have to say it was almost the first time to have so much wind on the way, and of course it's always the counter wind... Am I completely darned?

So, after the hilarious journey I arrived in Gori and the very first thing I did was smashing myself into a taxi, using my phone in one hand. Children, do NOT use your mobile phone while cycling. I ended up shattering one rear mirror and after a small negotiation we settled for 20 €. I mean, it's not nice what I did but I think this action will strongly remain in my mind since it was the very first time to experience a problem by using my phone while driving. A small passage of my youthful days... so far for the excuse.

Anyway, I called my host, Soso, who works for public services, for youth to be more precise. A friend of his had an apartment in Gori, who's living in Moscow and therefore it is only used during his holidays. While his absense, Soso is taking care of the apartment.

When I arrived there there were four other Australian couch surfers there, who are traveling by car all around the world now. They started of course in Australia and they did probably all the Asian countries. They were at that moment about to go to Turkey and then to Europe... Georgia is actually the place where this kind of people come together. Each of us has his or her own destination so we don't go the same way. This is, however, the coolest part of the whole history. In future, there will be probably the moment where I don't understand this feeling anymore. Then, I can probably say I'm too old, but until this moment I don't want to stop going further and further, and still I will be looking forward to new things and new people as eagerly as I am now... Starting from Batumi, this feeling is getting only stronger in my head. Well in short: I find these travelers so cool. And simultaneously I say with all my pride and honesty "I'm going my way".

I didn't have the intention first to stay in Gori one more day because I wanted to go to the embassy of Azerbaijan in Tbilisi as soon as possible. The Australian guys though told me that it's really a nice city. Well, I'm sure it's a nice city since it's the native city of Stalin. But the Australians were hilarious. We talked until late evening with Soso being obliged to go back home after midnight. It was pretty much the first time to have other couch surfers at the same place but not only hosts, but also surfers are often really nice. It's the greatest aspect of couch surfing, boy :)

After the departure of the Australian guys, Soso and I went to the city to go to the Stalin museum. I was expecting a hard core propaganda museum but it was rather a collection of historical evidence. I was told there would be a guest book with political comments I would find interesting, but eventually I couldn't find it. The photo is Stalin's personal wagon. He was afraid (?) of flying so, he used his wagon as often as possible. It looked rather like a normal wagon though...

For the whole day Soso took a taxi for me. I don't know how rich he is but he told me that this is the Georgian hospitality. I don't know whether I can be such a host when I get back to France... Let me see.

This kind of landscape on the photo is by the way daily life in Georgia. Did I tell you that I adore this type of invasion by animals?

Near Gori, there was a stone village called Uplistsikhe, a name which I would never be able to learn by heart. This was an early settlement in Gori and had its own queen (?) etc. If you read the wikipedia article you see something like a devided structure of upper middle and lower or so but to me it seemed to be like a stone lump... But I think it is worth visiting this place if you happen to be in Gori. It's a bit far away but you can also have a very nice view from there.

So, maybe you've forgotten the fact that we are now in the former USSR and you cannot live without a city legend. The story starts with the Stalin statue which used to be in front of the city hall of Gori. Probably it stood there during the whole USSR time. However, in 2010, the people of Gori decided to get rid of it. Well, it's been successfully done, though, the thing is nobody knows where it went then. I didn't do the research myself but according to the information of the Australians, some people think the statue was simply destroyed, others say it went to Russia or Turkey. I don't know why it should go to Turkey but Georgians often think good thing go to Turkey so it's maybe the analogy of this think process.

No, the thing is, it hasn't been destroyed or sent to Turkey or Russia. In fact, it's still in Gori. There's actually a Soviet factory at the edge of Gori which is apparently not working anymore, as you can see on the photo. And in a small deserted house (not having a structure of a house anymore), the stalin was abandoned... And again according to the information of Australians, even the people around this place, though there are not so many of them anyway, do not know the existence of such a thing. Those who knew that something was delivered in 2010 didn't know that it was the statue of Stalin which was once in front of the city hall. Nicely creepy and I'm still wondering how my host could obtain this information...

Well, thank you for following this text so far. I didn't mention at all but this was in fact the last day of October. It was the longest October ever in my life, as well as the brightest. It's almost a wonder that I was living in France two months ago, leading a nerdy life in front of my computer, merely the same day every day, though I was perceiving my whole life in a completely different way: I used to think my life in France was still pretty dynamical. It probably was, in a very small extent. And I was probably extremely proud of myself having done a great job in my study. Will this Don Quixote one day understand that the world is not turning around money and reasoning? How many times does he have to be helped until he finally understands that it's so much more going about humanity. Probably never. I say, I will never fathom out the order of the world and every time I get a help I'll cry out for the reason that never exists.

Still, this is the reality. Let me live with this then. A man without any conundrum in head is one of the most boring things ever. So, I will go on with all this stuff and I'll take one step further to my dream which has seemed so far away: Middle East.